I can see where yellow matches yellow, but there is a white and a black wire left over. Moreover, a ballast has a limited life and must be replaced after failure. Ballast Wire Colors Wire colors for individual and common connections on fluorescent ballasts will vary depending on ballast type, brand, and the number of lamps they support. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from . Branded ballasts can last for a long time so if you change one, you probably won’t need to change it again for 10 years or more. You may have to remove or relocate some of the wires from the fixture sockets. The yellows are going to go to the opposite side, they're going to tie into that red. My diagram has two red, two blue and two yellow. Ignore the diagram that was on the old ballast. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. The yellow wires are, for lack of a better description, are "shared"  so pin 1 of lamp 1 and pin 1 of lamp 2 go one yellow wire. I just stripped and twisted all the corresponding colored wires together: 2 reds to 2 reds, 2 blues to 2 The two blues and reds on the right connected to matching fixture wires on the right. If you’re are new to the technology and are interested in using it to replace old incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, you can use LED lights in your already existing fixtures. Where as before, I put in multiple fixtures or larger fixtures in order to achieve high light output. LED replacement tubes: "Direct Wire" types require you to bypass/remove the ballast, and wire 120V supply power directly to the lampholders. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, and ask code related questions. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. Ballast Bypass or AC Direct is a solution that doesn’t rely on the use of ballast as it has more disadvantages than advantages. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. Cut the wires close to the old ballast and remove the ballast. You didn't say anything about a ground wire coming of the ballast yet the diagram indicates there is one. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. Remove/reinstall. In many instances, light fixtures must be partially disassembled to access the ballast for replacement. "No PCBs" ballasts can be disposed with normal trash in most states. Snip the old fluorescent ballast wiring several inches from the end of the fluorescent ballast with side-cutting pliers or wire snips. It will have similar wiring going from the ballast to the 2 tube holders, as well as "extra" wires coming from the switch itself. First start by of course turning off the power and disconnecting the black and white wires from your in coming power feed to the old fixture you could reinstall wire nuts on black and white power feed wires as to be able to turn power back on to the rest of the lights on that circuit or leave it off if your the forget full type and might not remember its on when you go to Install the new ballast. I just installed this new ballast. old ballast has 1 white and 1 black wire on one end then one red and one blue on the other end. 18AWG or 18-gauge is probably what the old ballast has in place. Here's an article on how to tell the difference. That was probably one combination I didn't try. More below. With yel on one side, so they go to the single side. But, you will need to be proficient at reading the schematic that is on the new ballast. New Ballast in my kitchen light $20.00 VS. a whole new light fixture $120.00....SAVED us $100 PLUS+. When the switch is ON, the initial voltage across the lamp becomes 1000 V around due to high valued, hence gas discharge takes place instantaneously. You should have just bought a whole new fixture. 2. I suspect the wiring is not as simple as described. Oh me too believe me, everything other than those two T8 fixtures have been changed to LED around my property. It is usually cheaper than just getting the ballast itself and the T12 lamps and ballasts are scheduled to be obsolete soon since they are not as energy efficient as T8 and T5 lamps Here is the right-hand side of the lamps where I have the red and blue (bundles of four each) connected in two separate groups. Contractor's Assistant: I'll do all I can to help. I think the ballast is fine, but there is no ground, which is why I believe the light went out. The black connects to a red power wire in the ceiling, the white to the whtie neutral, and the single red, blue and yellow wires all connected to matching wires on the fixture to the left. Cut the colored wires to the old ballast On the 4 lamp parallel ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires … OP, this new ballast requires T-8 tubes which are 1" in diameter. I replaced a 20-year-old ballast that died last week. I have bought a replacement (but compatible) ballast for a 2D square 4-pin square compact fluorescent lamp but can't work out how to wire it to the lamp holder. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Since we are going to be removing the ballast in the next step, you want to also cut all the wires from the ballast to the tube holders. One was replaced over a year ago and is working perfectly. LED Lighting has really boomed in the RV Industry. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. The schematic shows red, yel, blue. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. The new one has black/white and 2 blues and one red. If you need to buy a T8 tube, you'll have your choice of color temperature. I'll do all I can to help. Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. Play around with the lamps. Suggestions on grounding the lamp to a juncture box that has no ground wire? Cut the Old Ballast Wiring. Follow the wiring diagram that came with your new ballast. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. The need to replace the original fluorescent ballast with a new LED driver requires more labor than plug-and-play solutions, which work with the existing fluorescent ballast. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. It has only two blue wires, two red wires, and two yellow wires. Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. My old ballast was wired as pic 1 with 3 wires to the 3 connectors the new ballast has 6 connectors I wired old 1 to new 21 old 2 to 23 old 5 to 25 but no joy - do i have to loop 21-22 23-24 25-26 i know the tubes work and the plug Novak cautions that on very old fixtures--those that are more than 20 or 30 years old--you may have a tough time finding a replacement ballast. A couple of distinctions with what I am dealing with: 1) there is no green wire coming out of the left of the ballast: just one black and one white. Works fine, I was thinking about the jumpering when I was first doing it, so I guess I had somewhat of a clue. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. Took old ballast to supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. The incurred cost will preponderate over the preliminary financial savings by changeover to the ballast-compatible LED lamps for a large number of fixtures throughout a building. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. So, I've got two less blue wires, and an additional yellow. If you’re using computer systems, gaming systems, large appliance, and even “smart home” components on a system that’s designed for much … When changing a ballast, it is not feasible to disconnect and reconnect the wires from each lampholder. The original magnetic ballast, at the bottom of the photo, is an Advance Ad-Lite Fluorescent Lamp Ballast produced by Advance Transformer Co. (Chicago) in the 1960s is far larger and heavier than the Philips Advance IntellilVolt replacement electronic ballast used to replace it. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. There are two black and two white wires coming out of the old ballast and 4 connectors on the new ballast, so the numbers are right. Do not panic. How to Wire a T8 Ballast. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. Here's a larger view of the wiring diagram. Efficiency is really what it’s all about. The replacement process was super easy. The new ballast and lampholder wire ends are stripped. Your old cap may not work on the new motor because it may not be rated the same, the 2 brown wires go to that capacitor. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! The new ballast wires are connected to Not take the two reds and wire nut them both to one of the blues and repeat with the other two blues from the ballast to the other single blue coming from the socket. Follow the diagram and connect the different colors to the connectors. This photo compares a pair of old and new ballasts. So, how to wire the new ballast to my fixture so it works? Do you mind explaining how that worked? I hooked it up like the other poster said, red with yellows, one blue with reds and one blue with the 2 blues. 5 Run one jumper from each side of each yellow to the other socket on that end. Since removed the timer from the circuit, hoping to rebuild the light without the built in timer. After all of this I understand ballast wiring much better now. If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. In your case you for sure made the right call. https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Ballast-in-a-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixture 3000 (halogen), 3500, 4100 (normal fluorescent), 5100, or 6500 (cloudy day). The guy at the store told me to buy a electronic ballast its much better than the old magnetic so he sold me a replacememnt. Fortunately, you can easily tell whether a ballast contains PCBs. The fixture now will not work with just 1 bulb, 2 must be intalled into the fixture. Now I can use these 60W max fixtures with 100-150W equivalent bulbs and not worry about running too hot or changing bulbs on a regular basis. They are inexpensive and will give 10 to 20 years of service. 3. Can you give the model number of the ballast you purchased? I believe most residential wiring codes require the use of solid core insulated wire. 4. Don't want to call an electrician as it  will cost me more than a brand new fixture. If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then you have to install a jumper between the two sockets. A new fixture would likely be only about $10 more than the replacement ballast. You will need T8 lamps too. T8 ballasts are designed to … Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures are more energy-efficient than incandescent light fixtures, and the bulbs generally last considerably longer, but occasionally a special transformer inside the fixture, called a ballast, may need replacing., may need replacing. Additionally, removing the ballast will reduce energy usage and result in even great cost-savings as ballasts continue to draw more power than necessary. 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